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boarmaster
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Posted: Sat Sep 22nd, 2007 09:46 pm |
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As you know , I lost my 5,000 acre lease this year due to a sell out from the timber company! I lost my herds and will miss them life goes on. I have been looking for some new places to manage, but have not found my new home yet; I'm homeless I have reached my pinnacle anyway and need to learn more and offer more. So while I'm deciding where my new home will be, I need the trap masters on here to teach me what I need to know about snaring! First off, it is legal in Louisiana to snare hogs, the snares will hold the foot. I know there are different types of snares and different sizes. I 'm not after the pigs; I've taken hundreds of them. I want to take the dominant boar. The ones that avoid daylight and laugh at your traps. Neck and foot snares will be used. I do want to film the ones I catch though, and want them alive. Here's a few questions before I start.
What neck snares do I use, and a few suggestions on them would be great?
Help me out a little with parts of the snare. I am going to order a dozen of the ones below.
9Ft, 1/8" 7x7 galvanized aircraft cable that have a tensile strength of 1,700 lbs!
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 Last edited on Sat Sep 22nd, 2007 09:52 pm by boarmaster
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wyohunter
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Posted: Sun Sep 23rd, 2007 04:28 am |
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| By the looks of the snare it is a lethal snare. If you want them alive you need to make sure it states that they are non-lethal. To me the most frustrating thing to get used to when I first started snaring was how to hold the snare in place. I use #9 wire and bend it special for each location. If you've got a good trail, put a small log just high enough to let the hog go under it and use the log to hold the snare in place and secure the snare to a very strong tree!. Don't ever put bait close to your snare. If the animal has it's nose on the ground makes it very hard to snare. I've never use foot snares. Hopefully Dan has some knowledge on that one.
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Dan Tanner
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Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2007 12:14 am |
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first off I feel a neck snare would be the easiest to catch them in as you can pretty much cover a trail with them and sooner or later his head will enter one, one trick i was taught by Newt Sterling close friend and a master snare man was to use a chin lifter, by this he hangs a blade of grass on the bottom of the snare causing the animal to lift his head and enter the snare.... Newt can be reached at http://www.snareone.com for more snaring info... as for having them alive you will need to make sure your using a relaxing snare lock so when the animal is caught he dont choke himself to death another thing is to keep the snare away from other trees and such that will cause him to tangle up and choke down..... plenty of swivels should be used to keep him going round and round without getting tangled up.....
For foot snares I have anly used the Freemont and thats what im using right now for bear, they make 2 different models the Bear/ boar model and the coyote model which is smaller.... with foot snare you need to some digging to get the snare in the ground or should i say the throwing mechanisim the foot snare NEEDS a throwing mechanisim to set off and pull the foot snare tight where the neck snare the animal will automaticly tighten the snare as he goes through...
NECK snares are cheap foot snares are pricy because of the thrower needed Mine was I think 40 bucks ..... but I have seen footsnares go for as much as 100.00 depending on brand where neck snares will be more like 1.00 or 2.00 each HUGE DIFFERENCE just something to think about
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wyohunter
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Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2007 02:56 am |
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| Thanks for the help Dan , I forgot all about the chin lifter and I use them too!
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boarmaster
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Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 01:49 am |
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Well, Thanks for all the advice, it's going to be awhile until I find a new home so I'm going to practice on the neighbors dogs Just kidding. I'm going to order some different sizes and types of snares and get them ready. Right off the bat I can tell you from reading up on it, and your advice that it should be a neck snare. I will put out some foot snares too; just to see how good they work. Usually the hogs will make about 3-4 heavy trails to the feeder. Direction depends upon the terrain, not the sun. I have had several feeders that have had 4 distinct trails all coming from the same direction and all slowly tapering to the same spot. They are very predictable once you get to know them. The trails are very tight and get deep like ruts.
Should I boil them in baking soda for an hour or so, or should I just hang them out to to weather, or dye them? A hogs eye sight is relative to MR. Magoo ! But they will see a glare from the sun. On another note when they are familiar to an area and a feeder they move at a pretty good pace and don't even slow down. It is like they are trying to beat each other to the feeder. I'm going to crawfish a little on this post and say that I wanted to catch only the dominant boar, but I am used to doing that with traps and hunting, but I should probably start small and learn the craft of snaring before I set the bar to high.
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wyohunter
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Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 02:01 am |
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| I prefer to boil them. If I don't have time to let them weather for at least a month. I would take them to a car wash and blast them there to try and get any oil off and rinse them well. Then boil them in baking soda and that should do it. If I were to use them on coyotes I would not touch them with my bare hands. I don't know anything about how hogs would react. Better safe then sorry though. Now I have to ask a question? How are you going to single out the dominate boar? When they are running in a line it's going to be who ever gets there first!
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boarmaster
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Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 03:02 am |
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Very good question! The big boys love to travel alone unless the sow are in heat. I can find thier trails easy by the track and sign. The problem is that I will have to be quick to bait his trail as they tend to walk larger circles up to several miles, they will hang out in the area for a few days at a time, but are quick to leave. Thank God I am not limited in Louisiana on the snares. If the sow are in heat, which I can tell by the tracks and sign; then I cannot set one becuase the Dominant Boar will not travel first, he will follow them.
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fishdaddy
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Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 01:32 pm |
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| i bought a foot snare for 20 bucks its a belisle holds an 8 in. loop. any snare cam be lethal if they get tangled.
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Dan Tanner
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Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 11:04 pm |
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| are the dominet boars usually taller than the rest ? if so hanging a neck snare high enough to get him but to let the others go under it may be the ticket
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boarmaster
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Posted: Sat Sep 29th, 2007 09:23 pm |
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Dan Tanner wrote: are the dominet boars usually taller than the rest ? if so hanging a neck snare high enough to get him but to let the others go under it may be the ticket
Hard question to answer. It's not really the size or how tall they are; it's a matter of the dominant one. Some of my sows were huge, because I would let them walk if they had good genes. The problem is trying to get the leader, the one that owns all of them. That's the ones I want. Very, very, hard to do. They are smart. Gonna be a challenge. On the flip side, should make some great video, or pictures, depending on the help I have available.
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wyohunter
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Posted: Sat Sep 29th, 2007 11:00 pm |
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| Are you going to secure it to a tree? Are you going to use a cable or chain?
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boarmaster
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Posted: Thu Oct 4th, 2007 02:31 am |
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| I guess a cable with plenty of swivels, and yes I will anchor it to a tree, or I might have to anchor it to one of my old telephone poles pieces and make a drag?
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Nutoy
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Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2008 03:16 am |
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I see this post is months old but I hope this will help you out a little.
First let me say I'm not claiming to be an expert in snaring hogs but I have put a collar on quiet a few in the last 7 or 8 years. IMO when hogs get trap shy, as most big ones are, the best way to catch them is with a snare.
Snaring hogs, especially big hogs can be the most fun you can have with your clothes on and it can be one of the most aggrevating things you'll ever do.
I'm in east tx and it sounds like we are dealing with the same conditions(Hogs and feeders).
My snare set up is 10ft of 1/8" 7x7 or 1x19 GAC, 1/8" berkshire sure lock extra heavy duty, homemade coiled wammy, 40" 1/2" rebar T-stake with 9ga support wire. Not saying this set up is the best but it works well for me.
Edited to add: I don't use swivels. I have yet to see a swivel that I'd trust to hold a good sized hog that would be practical for snaring.
I like to use a large loop, from 20"-30" set around 8"-10" from the bottom of the loop to the ground with the lock in the 11 or 1 oclock position. With enough ground clearence and the lock positioned correctly the smaller pigs and shoats will go under the loop allowing it to drop back down for the biguns. I don't use chin lifts to avoid the smaller hogs. I like to anchor high up on 4"-6" trees. Smaller trees will provide a "shock absorber" type action. This will help when you approach the snared hog cause they WILL charge.
I never set just one snare. Gang setting the trails is the only way to catch the domanant boar. He will NEVER be the lead hog.
The snare you have in the picture has a cam lock and in more cases than not it will be lethel. I prefer the berkshire sure locks even tho they are also classified as an agressive lock. When a larger hog hits the end of the cable the sure lock will bend and crimp the cable into the lock. This will somewhat keep the lock from constantly tightening everytime pressure is applied by the hog. This will allow a few to escape from time to time if they don't get both ears passed the loop but I would rather that happen than have alot of dead hogs. 99.5% of the hogs I snare are DEFINATLY alive when I get there as long as the nighttime temperatures are cool enough.
Temperature will play a big part in the mortality rate. Hogs fight a snare hard and cannot take high temps. When nighttime temps get above 55 deg the mortality rate will be high. I've had virtually no fatalities when temps are below 35 deg. If/when the hogs get back to moving during daylight hours and the daytime temps get above 50 deg I'll run the snares twice a day.
Foot snaring can be done but is a pain in the rear. It can also damage the hogs leg/foot. If you need info let me know.
Hope this makes sense.
Nutoy
Last edited on Sun Jan 13th, 2008 03:58 pm by Nutoy
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Chick
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Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2008 03:52 am |
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Good post nutoy! I wish I was up there right now, and my daughter's health was not what it was. Things will get better, and we will make a run on 'em.
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wyohunter
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Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2008 04:25 am |
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| Great pics and you did a fantastic job of explaining how to get the job done. Thanks I would love to get a hog like that with those nice cutters.
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