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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:14 pm |
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I was making a bunch of hog snares today and thought some of y'all might be interested in how I do them.
Unless I can figure out how to insert more than one pic at a time without uploading them to a host I'll have to use several post to complete this. Sorry.
Heres the materials I used to make each of these snares.
10 feet of 1/8" 7x7 galv aircraft cable. One 1/8" Berkshire extra heavy duty lock. Two single ferrules(stops). One double ferrule. One wammy(homemade).
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 Last edited on Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:23 pm by Nutoy
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:26 pm |
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Heres the tools I use. Cable cutters. Needle nose pliers. Hammer. Bolt cutters with the jaws ground down for a swagging tool.
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:33 pm |
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The most important thing to remember when making any type of snare is to work with the natural memory of the cable.
Placing the lock on the cable, making sure the memory is proper.
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:37 pm |
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| While holding the snare loop vertical I place a stop on the end and give it a few wacks with the hammer Attached Image (viewed 1140 times):
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:40 pm |
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| With the needle nose pliers I then make a reverse bend in the cable. Attached Image (viewed 1135 times):
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:45 pm |
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Heres the lock end complete, except for the deer stop.
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:53 pm |
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If you'll notice in the last pic the loop is tear dropped. Using the crank handle on the vise I load the last 4-5 inches of the cable by the lock. This makes the loop stay round but more importantly is it makes the snare "fire" shut.
When loading the cable it is very important to make sure you load it with the natural memory of the cable or the loop will want to form a figure eight.
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Nutoy
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Posted: Tue Jan 22nd, 2008 11:57 pm |
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| After loading. Attached Image (viewed 1118 times):
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Nutoy
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Posted: Wed Jan 23rd, 2008 12:02 am |
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| All thats left is to rig the anchor end. The one shown is an adjustable end. It can be a fixed end by just using a double ferrule. Attached Image (viewed 1113 times):
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Nutoy
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Posted: Wed Jan 23rd, 2008 12:10 am |
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If I going to be snaing where deer are present I'll add a deer stop so the loop will not close tighter than 3" dia. For deer stops I use those small stainless steel hog nose rings used in making crawfish traps.
Now just set it in a hog trail and collect the hogs. 
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wyohunter
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Posted: Wed Jan 23rd, 2008 03:01 am |
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| Great pics and explained very well.
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boarmaster
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Posted: Thu Jan 24th, 2008 10:10 pm |
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Nutoy,
Thanks for all the help on this one; the pictures and explainations are great. Let me know when you and CHICK are going hog hunting or setting snares. It would be my honor to tag along .
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If life hands you lemons; mix them with vodka!
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Chick
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Posted: Sat Jan 26th, 2008 01:30 pm |
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Nutoy,
This has to be the most informative post of building hog snares, o the internet. Thanks for the great post!
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boarmaster
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Posted: Sun Jan 27th, 2008 02:59 pm |
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Chick wrote: Nutoy,
This has to be the most informative post of building hog snares, o the internet. Thanks for the great post!
Yes it is. 
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If life hands you lemons; mix them with vodka!
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brucet
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Posted: Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 02:04 am |
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Nutoy wrote: If I going to be snaing where deer are present I'll add a deer stop so the loop will not close tighter than 3" dia. For deer stops I use those small stainless steel hog nose rings used in making crawfish traps.
Now just set it in a hog trail and collect the hogs.
Bacon on the hoof
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VEGETARIAN:Old indian term for bad hunter
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